1. Step 1

   The firt step in making your button bracelet is to choose your buttons. Choose buttons of similar size and shape for your first few bracelets. Choose buttons with two to four holes. Crafters with less experience shoudl choose buttons with larger holes.

2. Step 2

   The next step in making your button bracelet is to cut your beading cord to one foot. As you gain more experience you can cut the cord shorter.

3. Step 3

   The next step in making your button bracelet is to thread one end of your cord through one button hole, leave one to inches on the end. Secure with a knot. You will use this to finish the bracelet at the end.

4. Step 4

   The next step in making your button bracelet is to thread the cord through the hole directly across from the hole with the knot in it.

5. Step 5

   The next step in making your button bracelet is to choose your next button. Thread the cord through the hole on the left side, then on the right side. Continue to do this until your bracelet is the length of your wrist.

6. Step 6

   To finish your button bracelet tie the two ends together.

7. Step 7

   To create more complicated button bracelets consider:
   * Layer smaller button on top of larger buttons
   * Using a larger button in the center of your bracelet to create a centerpiece

8. Step 8

   Please rate this article and recommend me if you found this article useful. To recommend me click on my Icon at the top of this page. That will bring you to my ehow page. Please look at my other articles as well.

ATT:J.P.Tizzard

To make teen jewelry, know teen fashion. Narrow down the style. Bubble gum pop or hard rock? Punk or goth? Expand to materials. Symbols such as peace, heart and “Om” are popular. Work in leather or metals. Think spikes and rivets. Ask the teen questions about her style. Once you have established her likes and dislikes, you are ready to begin making teen jewelry.

How to Make Teen Jewelry

1. Step 1

   Find a good selection of trendy and seasonal pictures of jewelry for ideas. Collect an eclectic selection of beads, crystals, charms, tribal or colorful beads. For stringing materials, select wires, chain, cords, ribbon or thread. Look for discarded or broken jewelry pieces. Mix and match colors. Make a personal statement. Create a design or pattern to make earrings, necklaces and bracelets.

2. Step 2

   

   Sterling silver earrings

   Start with earrings. Put together a simple pattern by choosing three parts: one or two beads and a small spacer or charm between the two focus beads. Place the beads and/or charm onto the head pin exactly like your design. Bend top of the head pin 90 degrees with flat nose pliers. Make a loop with the round nose pliers. Loop the head pin onto the wire loop. Close open loop. Repeat with other wire.

3. Step 3

   

   Beaded wrap bracelets

   Make a bracelet from recycled guitar string or memory wire. Cut guitar string or wire 9 inches. Create a design with approximately 50 beads and spacers/charms. For string, secure with crimp tube. For wire, make loop at the end of wire using round nose pliers. String bead design. For string, squeeze end of crimp tube and attach to barrel clasp. For wire, make a loop at other end of the wire, using round nose pliers.

4. Step 4

   

   Stylish necklaces

   Cut 19 inches of wire, hemp or cord. Attach crimp bead or cord coil to secure one end. Place crimp bead at the wire’s end. Add clasp. Loop wire back through the crimp bead. Squeeze with flat nose pliers. For cord, slip cord into coil, compress two coils to secure. String bead design. For wire, crimp again. Then, use lobster claw. For cord, flatten one to two coil rings. Use lanyard hook or a spring ring for closure.

att:J.P.TIZZARD

Before you begin …
Materials:
~0.5 meters of fishing line per beaded ball
Enough elastic string to wrap around your wrist and make a knot (with a little extra to account for the beads strung)
12 to 14 beaded balls, each consisting of:
30 x size 6/0 seed beads (large seed beads) or crystals or round beads
60 x size 11/0 seed beads (smaller seed beads) – note that you can use any size seed bead that is smaller than 6/0, like 8/0 or 15/0, but 11/0 has the best contrast while providing a good ball size; the bigger the beads you use, the bigger each ball will be
Optional – one large wooden or plastic bead to insert inside your beaded ball so it becomes rigid; not necessary, but otherwise your beaded balls will be compressible if pressed on; size needed will depend on bead sizes used, but for the recommended bead sizes, a 10mm or 15mm bead should do the trick
For the earrings, you can replace the size 6/0 seed beads with 3mm bugle beads, as they will look daintier this way. You should insert a large pearl in the earring to make it look more feminine.
Time required:~5 to 10 hours in total (for the bracelet) – one advantage to using bigger beads is that the balls are bigger, so you fit less balls around your wrist (ie, saves you time)
Techniques: Beadweaving, right angle weave
Difficulty: Medium

Step 1: We are going to go through the steps of making one beaded ball, then I’ll show you how to attach them together to make the bracelet. Start at bead 1, using fishing line, thread on beads 2 to 5, crossover threads at bead 4. This is the first bead circle of the smaller sized seed bead. Next, string a large bead (bead 6), small bead 7, large bead 8, small bead 9, large bead 10, and cross strings through bead 10. You’ve just made a circle of alternating bead sizes. Make sure that every alternating size bead circle in your pattern consists of 3 large beads and 3 small beads (6 beads total). Every circle of small beads should consist of 5 small beads. The entire pattern will consist of these two types of bead circles. So after crossing at bead 10, string through bead 3 with the black string (this bead is already in your pattern), and to the red string, thread on beads 11 to 14, crossover strings at bead 14. Continue in this manner (following the diagram arrows and bead numbers) until you have fully made a row of alternating size bead circles around your initial small bead circle. Cross strings at bead 25, where we will start the next row of bead circles in the next diagram.

Step 2: This step is very similar to the first one, even though it may look different in the diagram. We are still making the same types of bead circles, but in this row of beads, we are going to make 5 small bead circles, and 5 alternating size bead circles. The beads from step 1 that are no longer in use are paled out for clarity. However, some of the beads from step 1 are used again (you’ll string through them). Those beads are labelled with the same bead numbers as in step 1, so look back at the first diagram to see where they are. They are beads 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, and 25. Bead 25 is where we are starting in this step, and it is exactly where we left off in the previous step. The bead numbering is going to continue from 25 upwards (until bead 55, the last bead in this step). So, from bead 25, we are going to make an alternating size bead circle. To the black string, add beads 26, 27, 28, 29, and 30. They are all new beads in the pattern. Cross over your strings through bead 30. Now, here’s where we reuse old beads. With the black string, thread through beads 23 and 21, which are already in the pattern. Thread beads 31 and 32 onto the red string, and cross over strings through bead 32. You’ve just made the first small bead circle of the row. Continue beading in this manner (making an alternating size bead circle, then a smaller size bead circle) until you’ve completely encircled the previous row, following the diagram carefully. Cross strings through bead 55, then thread the black string through bead 53, and the red string through bead 27, both of which are in your pattern.

Step 3: This row of beads is made in a very similar way to the previous row. The diagram looks a bit different because you’re starting from a small bead instead of a large one, and because we’re moving upwards, which can’t be shown in 2D, so I had to show it going outwards instead. But your beaded ball won’t actually be getting wider at this point. It will be growing upwards. As before, there are some beads faded in this diagram because they are no longer used in this step. As well, there are some beads that are reused from the previous step, because you’ll be stringing through them again. They are labelled with the same bead numbers as in the previous diagram, so have a look to see where they were. They are beads 27, 28, 29, 31, 33, 34, 35, 37, 39, 40, 41, 43, 45, 46, 47, 49, 51, 52, 53, and 55. Bead 55 is our starting bead for this diagram, and the beads are numbered upwards from there. Starting at bead 55, thread beads 53, 56, 57, and 58 onto the black string. Thread through bead 27 with the red string, then cross both strings through bead 58. We have just completed our first alternating size bead circle of this row. Next, string through bead 28 with the black string. Thread beads 59, 60, and 61 onto the red string, then crossover through bead 61 with the black string. I know it’s hard to see in the diagram, but you’ve just made another circle of small pink seed beads. Continue this way, making one alternating size bead circle and one small bead circle, until you have completely encircled the previous row of beads. Your beaded ball should be getting more spherical and 3D now. If you want to insert a large wooden bead, pearl, or plastic round bead into your beaded ball, insert it now. We’ll be beading right over it in the next and final step to enclose it.

Step 4: This is the final row of our beaded ball. It’s easier to make than the previous two rows, so if you’ve made it this far, you’re sure to make it to the end! This step is very similar to the first step. What we are going to end up with is a mirror image of the first step. It doesn’t look like it in our diagram because we’ve been building it outwards, but really the beads will be coming together in your real beadwork. Again, there are some beads faded out in this step because they aren’t used anymore. And there are some beads reused from the previous step, as we’ll be stringing through them again. They are beads 57, 59, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67, 69, 70, 72, 74, 75, 77, 79, and 80. Sorry about the bead numbers being hard to see in this diagram. Basically, those are the inner beads all along the border of the faded beads. We’re starting where we left off, at bead 80. We’re going to be making only alternating bead size circles in this row, just like in step 1. String beads 81, 82, and 83 onto the black string. Thread through beads 57 and 59 with the red string, and cross through bead 83. String beads 84 and 85 on the red string, and thread through beads 60, 62, and 64 with the black string. Crossover through bead 85. Continue in this manner, making alternating size bead circles, until you have crossed over through bead 90 (small pink seed bead in the bottom right corner of the diagram). At this point, we no longer add any new beads to the pattern, but we must string through the last circle of 5 small seed beads at the very top of your beaded ball, to enclose it. Take the black string (either string will work, but I used black in the diagram) and string right through all 5 small seed beads at the top of your beaded ball (in the diagram, beads 82, 84, 86, 88, and 90). You will be stringing right back through bead 90 again (making a loop) to join these 5 beads together. Although these 5 beads look very far apart in my diagram, they are actually forming their own circle of 5 beads, and in reality are right next to each other. To see what I mean, look at the next diagram (step 5 diagram) in the very center of the diagram, you see a circle of 5 small pink seed beads. That is the same 5 beads. That’s how they should look when you pull tight (closely knit together in a circle). Okay tie a knot with your fishing line, you’re done your first beaded ball. You can make it into an earring, or you can continue making more balls to make a bracelet.

Step 5 – Optional: Note, this step is optional. This is just one method of attaching the balls together. You have two options. If you plan to make each ball separately and then string them together using elastic string, then skip this step. If you plan to use a loop clasp to close the bracelet, then use this method to attach the balls together as you make them. As well, if you plan to seamlessly attach the last ball back to the first one (you’ll have to make the bracelet wide enough to roll over your hand in that case), use this method as well. Basically, with the attachment method, you don’t make individual balls, but one continuous bracelet, building each ball onto the previous one, via the very last bead circle in the ball. I’ve shown it in the diagram by showing you the very first bead circle of small pink seed beads, because these are the last beads from the previous beaded ball. The rest of the beads in the new ball are a different colour because they are new beads that you will add onto that first bead circle to complete the second beaded ball. If you are planning to use a loop clasp (ie, make a loop of seed beads on one side and loop it through the ball on the other end to close the bracelet), you can just keep beading the balls on the previous one until you get to a bracelet length long enough for you, and then bead a little loop of seed beads onto the end and you’re done. Otherwise, if you want to seamlessly blend the last ball into the first one so you can’t tell where the bracelet begins and where it ends (note, make the bracelet wide enough to roll over your hand, or make the whole thing out of elastic string), I’ve also shown you how to attach the last ball back to the first one (in the diagram). Basically, look at the outer small pink seed beads in the periphery of the diagram. Those beads represent the first circle of small pink beads from the first ball of the bracelet. As you are stringing together the last beaded ball, when you get to those pink beads in the diagram, don’t add new beads like you usually do, but rather string through the corresponding beads in the first circle of small beads in the first ball (on the other end of the bracelet). This probably sounds challenging, and I won’t lie that it’s not the most comfortable technique in the world, but I’ve done it before and it works. If you can’t get it to work, don’t worry about it, just make all your beaded balls individually, and string them together at the end with elastic string. That is the easiest method. And then if you have extra ones left over, you can make matching earrings out of them! If you make enough of them, you could even string a necklace out of them.

Elastic Knot: This is a picture of how to tie a knot with elastic string, should you choose to string together your beaded balls with elastic string. Basically, after stringing through all the beaded balls with the elastic string, take the two ends together in your hand and hold them together against each other (parallel to each other). Then, holding them together, make a loop and then tie a knot. This contrasts to the knots you make with fishing line, where you don’t have to hold the two ends together while you’re making the knot. As an extra tip, after you’ve made the knot, to get it as close to the beads as you can get it (to make the bracelet tighter, rather than too loose), insert a toothpick, cue tip, or beading needle into the loop that you’ve made (as shown in the picture) and pull the knot tight around the needle/toothpick. Once the knot is down to where the elastic string comes out of the beads, quickly yank out the needle/toothpick. Hope this helps!

Another beaded ball bracelet: The possibilities of colours and styles are endless, and here’s another example of a ball bracelet. In this bracelet, each ball is beaded separately with about 1 meter of fishing line, and then all 12 balls are strung together at the end with elastic string. I doubled the elastic string for extra security (strung through twice). I used 0.5mm diameter clear elastic string. Before closing each beaded ball with the fishing line, I inserted one 10mm diameter white glass pearl in order for the ball to keep its shape and hardness. You don’t have to attach this bead, just insert it into the ball before weaving each ball shut and tying off the fishing line. When you are stringing the elastic string through each ball, use a needle to guide the string through the ball, because you will have to line up the hole of the pearl inside with the holes of the beaded ball. I used one of the holes created by a bead circle of 5 small seed beads (“the little coloured flower”) as my hole through which to string the elastic string.

ATT:J.P.Tizzard

Supplies:

Seed Beads (you can use one or more colors)
3 inch brass ring
Thread
Needle

Note: If you were caught up in the bangle crazed 80s like I was, you may have some old metal bangles already that you could bead in this fashion! I, sadly, used up all my old bangles making dream catchers already. Sigh.

Peyote Stitched Bangles

These bangles are easy to make. Just start by stringing 10 seed beads unto your thread, then, enclosing the brass ring, pass thru the beads again to make a circle. Start even count peyote stitch and continue until the entire ring is enclosed, zipping up the ends when they meet. The pink and blue bangle is done this way.

The orange and yellow bangle is done in odd count tubular peyote, starting with 11 beads. It fits a bit looser then the other bangle, but looks great. There is no need to worry about the inside of the bangle using less beads, the tube curves nicely around the ring.

Circle Bangles

This bangle is very easy. Simply pick up ten beads, and tie into a tight circle around the ring. Pick up 10 more beads, and pass back thru them all again. Go thru the first few beads for a third time, and pull your thread tight, until no thread shows between the two circles and they sit snugly next to each other. (It is important NOT to pierce your thread when doing this!) Continue to add circles in this way until the entire ring is covered.

ATT: J.P.Tizzard

32-gauge sterling silver wire
silk ribbon (typically used for ribbon embroidery)
crochet hook
ribbon embroidery needle (or any needle with a very large eye to accommodate the silk ribbon)
scissors (to cut the wire) or wire cutters
scissors to cut the silk ribbon
Swarovski crystal bead
needle-nose pliers

Steps 1-2

1. Sterling silver wire is available by the roll, so work directly from the roll to eliminate guessing the size of the finished bracelet.

2. Thread the Swarovski crystal onto the wire.

Steps 3-5

3. Using a crochet hook, single chain stitch one row to the desired length of the bracelet.

4. Turn and single chain stitch a second row.

5. Turn and single chain stitch a third row, this time stopping at the halfway point on the bracelet.

Steps 6-8

6. Pull the Swarovski crystal up so that it will be pulled into the next crochet stitch.

7. Continue the single chain stitch to complete the third row.

8. Turn and single chain stitch a fourth and final row.

Step 9

9. Clip the sterling silver wire with an inch of excess wire.

10. Using needle-nose pliers, weave and twist the excess wire back into the bracelet, making sure there are no sharp points.

Steps 11-12

11. Thread the silk ribbon onto an embroidery needle. Work directly from the package of ribbon rather than cutting off a certain amount. This eliminates the guesswork.

12. Randomly weave the ribbon throughout the crocheted wire bracelet.

Step 13

13. Weave the ribbon in and out of the crochet loops.

14. Leave about an 8-inch length of ribbon on each end.

15. You now have an 8-inch length of ribbon at each end of the bracelet. Tie each one with a simple knot to the wire, and tie the ribbon around your wrist.

Knotting threads is just another form of macrame that many of you did a number of years ago, but then we used heavy cording instead of thread and made plant hangers and owls. Any bracelets were usually made with hemp or waxed thread.

It was those facts and those memories that made me remember how much I enjoyed doing all that knotting; so as rusty as I was, that’s what today’s project was all about.

The exact materials you will need are not exact. You can substitute and change whatever and wherever you decide to. For the bracelets I used crochet thread (it comes in different weights), cording or embroidery floss. If using embroidery floss, use all six strands as one. Hemp is also used a lot and most craft stores now carry it in a variety of colors.

For a working surface you can use a sturdy pillow such as a sofa pillow or cushion. I used a small cork bulletin board. The kitchen counter will work if you would rather stand. Or sit at the kitchen table or a work table. You will also need T pins and/or tape.

If you’ve not knotted before, then PRACTICE is what you really should do before cutting the threads for a bracelet. Once you get the hang of it, you’re on your own.

Practice is for more than just getting your knotting to look even. It will also give you a chance to see what kind of a look you get from the different threads or cords and how many strands you will want to use. Note: Yarn is not recommended as it is too stretchy.

Cut four 1-yard lengths of medium- to heavy-weight crochet thread. Knot them together at one end.

Place the knotted together strands on your work surface. If you are working on a counter top or table top, use a good strong tape to tape them to the surface. Place the tape below the knot. If working on a cork board, you can stick a T pin through the knot to hold it. If working on a pillow, you can secure your work with a safety pin. I prefer a table top.

The two outside strands will be the working strands. The inside strands will be the holding strands. No matter how many cords you are using, the ones that do the knotting are the working strands and the others are the holding strands. The holding strands will not change in length. Only the working strands will get shorter.

The first knot I demonstrated is one most of us learned in grade school — the square knot. When working on a hard surface, I find it helps to place a small item such as a piece of wood or a small box or even a pad of Post-it notes under the holding strands, because you need to pull the working strands under them at every knot. The inserted item will hold the strands up off of the work surface so you can slip the working strands under them instead of having to pick them up every time.

Starting on the left, pick up the outside strand (the working thread) and tie a knot in the end of it. This will be cord A. The knot in the end will help you remember. The outside cord on the right will be cord B.

1. Pick up the end of cord A and bring it OVER the holding cords and UNDER cord B.

2. Pull on the ends of both cords to pull the half knot up to the knot at the top.

3. Pick up the end of cord B and bring it under the holding cords and over cord A.

4. Pull on the ends to bring the second half of the knot up to the top. You have completed one square knot.

5. Repeat the above over and over … starting with A go over and under, and with B go under and over. Keep repeating until you run out of space on the holding cords. They should be covered with square knots.

Try the above with different threads and different colors. If you are using rather thin thread or cording, you might want to have a bunch of holding cords to make it fatter.

Try using two different colors alternating the colors, red, black, red, black. See what happens if you use red for the two outside cords and black in the middle. It doesn’t work, does it?

Square Knot Bracelet

When you are ready to make a bracelet, determine how long a bracelet you will need to go around your wrist. Multiply that measurement by 9. Example: If your wrist measures 7 inches, you will need to use cords that are 63 inches long.

To make a loop at one end of the bracelet, find the center of all of the cords and tape them to the table top. Place the tape about 1 inch above the center.

Make square knots for about 1-1/2 inch.

Remove the tape and bring both of the ends of the length of square knots together. Tape to the table to hold. You will now have eight lengths of cording and a loop at the top. The loop will be the fastener to hold the button or whatever you put at the other end of your bracelet.

Continue making square knots using all eight cords. Use the two outer cords as working cords and the center six cords as the holding cords.

Note: Any time you are working this kind of a knotted strand and you discover that the working cords are not going to be long enough, you can change them out with two of the holding cords. Be sure to do this before you get to the end of the working cords.

When the bracelet is the desired length, you can knot the ends of the cords into one knot large enough to act as a button to go through the loop, or you can sew a button to the end. Any time you knot the ends and cut the strands off, coat the cut ends with clear glue.

Adding Beads

To add beads along the outside of the bracelet, string a bead on each of the outside (working) threads and push them up as far as they will go. Continue to make square knots. Add two more beads in this manner as frequently as you want to add beads.

To add beads to the center of the strand, string the beads on the holding cords. If you have four strands of thread, all four threads will have to go through the bead.

Another Pattern

I’m sure that this pattern has a name, but I don’t know what it is. I do know that it couldn’t be easier. Depending on the kind of cording you use and how many strands you use, you can make very narrow bracelets or very wide ones. I also made several pair of shoe laces using embroidery floss and napkin rings with glossy heavy-duty crochet cording.

Basic Knot

To practice use three different colors of crochet thread or embroidery floss: Cut TWO 1-yard lengths of each color and knot them all together at one end.

Pin the knot to your board or pillow or tape it to a flat work surface and separate all of the strands so they are slightly fanned out on the work surface. You can alternate the colors 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3 or 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3.

Pick up the first strand on the left (1A) and bring it over, then under, then over the strand next to it. (1B). Keep the bottom thread taut and pull on the tying thread (1A) until the knot is as far up as it can go. Repeat the process using the same two strands. You will have a double knot on 1B.

Still holding 1A in your left hand, move on to the next strand and repeat the double knotting. Do the same with the remaining strands, always making two knots on each strand.

When you complete the row, start at the left again and repeat the procedure. This time your tying strand will be 1B. Continue in this manner always starting at the left and ending on the right (see notes) until knotted piece is as long as desired.

Finish off with an overhand knot.

Notes:

Our directions have you always starting on the left and moving to the right. You may prefer to work from right to left. Whichever direction you select, be sure to be consistent.

Do not examine your work too closely until you have completed several rows. It always looks like nothing for the first few rows.

Keep moving the tape down so that it is just above the knotting.

Making a Bracelet, Shoelaces or Napkin Ring.

To make a bracelet, select anywhere from four to a dozen threads to work with. If using embroidery thread, count each strand of six threads as one strand. I recommend using two of these six-thread strands as one. For a starter bracelet about 1/4 inch wide, cut 12 strands about 72 inches long and use them as six strands, positioning them as follows: two strands of color #1, two strands of color #2, and two strands of color #3.

1. Knot all strands together about 1 inch from one end. Divide into three strands and braid for about 3 inches. Knot all strands together again.

2. Start knotting the strands as described for desired length. Finish off with a knot.

3. Divide the six strands into three strands and braid for about 3 inches. Knot all strands together and cut off about 1 inch from the knot.

4. Wrap the bracelet on your wrist and tie to hold.

The same basic directions apply for making a napkin ring, but in this case use larger cording and leave longer strands after the knot at each end. I used 12 strands of glossy heavy-duty crochet thread.

Shoelaces

Materials:

6 pkgs. embroidery floss (three different colors, two pkgs. of each color)
3 small pieces of cardboard (approximately 1-1/2″ x 2″)

Steps:

1. Unwind one package of floss in each color, cut in half and hold the two lengths together to use as one strand.

2. Use the cardboard pieces as bobbins. Cut a small slit along one edge of each piece and wrap with one color floss. Secure the end in the slit.

For the shoelaces, I again used two strands of six threads as one knotting cord. For the red, white and blue shoelaces, I knotted the strands together about 1 inch down from the ends and pulled the knot into the smallest knot possible. After knotting the entire length of the shoelace (mine are 40 inches), I again knotted the strands together and cut the threads about 1 inch beyond the knot. The extending strands at each end I wrapped tightly in a short piece of cellophane tape; then cut off any extending ends. This makes them easy to lace.

• Begin by cutting a long strip of leather.
• Double it up by holding both ends in one hand.
• Mark one end A and one end B.
• Loop the doubled up end over a hook and tie an overhand knot. Keep the knot loose for now as shown in Fig. 1.
• Thread string B back through the knot leaving a loop behind as shown in Fig. 2.
• Pull a loop of string A through the loop you created with string Bas shown in Fig. 3.
• Pull string B to tighten the knot.
• Pull a loop of string B through the loop you created with string Aas shown in Fig. 4.
• Pull string A to tighten the knot.

Can you see the pattern? After you create a loop with one string, you pass a loop from the other string through it and tighten the original loop. Repeat this pattern until the braid is finished. Complete the braid by tying a double knot.

att:J.P.Tizzard

Can you see the pattern? The string on the right is pulled under the string closest to it. Then the string on the far left is pulled over one string and under one string, stopping in the middle.THE FOUR STRING BRAID

att: J.P.Tizzard